Great news and great cooking at the CMC test

I am pleased to tell you that four candidates passed the classical cooking componenton Tuesday and today they passed the freestyle element of the test. We move on tomorrow to global cuisine   with dishes from Greece , Argentina, and China. I must commend the Culinary Institute of America for the stellar work they have done to host and run the test.  I personal note it is great to meet in my colleagues and my peers and discuss the great ways the food culture is changing in America and the world. Many of my friends who I have not seen for years are part of the examination team and the conversations are enlightening and a great learning experience for both the candidates and the students and most of all my colleagues. Tomorrow night I will give you an update on the global cuisine
so on till then keep on cooking
Chef

Culinary education can we afford this?

This is a question was given to me by a concerned parent last night. Their daughter is looking forward to going to culinary school so in her junior year they are researching the different schools both public and private both not-for-profit and propriety schools. I never thought of this when I saw the variance in costs including all feeding housing and general expenses in some cases the cost of a two-year associate degree is over $60,000, and in the not-for-profit school. Has risen to 12,800 and that school was a commuter school so the student lives off-campus. I understand the cost of food going up, and the cost of hiring highly qualified faculty are one of the major things causing the bottom line to rise.  After I researched these costs, it is the administration costs that are out of control, for example just in my college the administration costs have gone up by nearly 15% last year. On the other side of the coin that has been a major reduction in hiring full-time faculty and the public institutions are seeking to reduce full-time faculty to just the department head and maybe one other faculty member for each department.

 I understand some of the private schools are some the finest in the world have to charge a lot more to be able to survive but now the Department of Education is asking both private and public schools to be able to prove and the student repay their student loans.

One of the biggest marketing ploys that some schools use is that tell the student they’ll be earning 35 to 45,000 a year after a two-year degree and in reality of the lucky be earning between 14 and $16 hour after being awarded their degree. So what can we do about it we need to get into that in stronger partnerships with industry and developed strong apprenticeship programs for the incoming students? I think it was properly planned it would create another path for students and their family to be able to afford the cost of going to school. As you all well know I am a former apprentice and I did not pursue my upper-level diplomas until I had completed the apprenticeship and worked in industry two years. If the plan was really in place the three years will be developed to just building the skills of the student become a journeyman cook. Then on to college to learn the priorities of management and good financial controls for their operations. Most of these courses could be taught online and could be approved by all the accrediting boards nationwide.

So this is something to think about, because parent who spoke to me obviously has limited income and has saved for his daughter’s education but they are being priced out of it by the exorbitant cost to go to culinary school. The total cost of my sons Dr. Degree was about $30,000, 50 percent of the highest most expensive school in the United States granting a two-year degree. Anyway let’s  talk about good subject is being driven home every day when parents get their first price shock and try to place their children into culinary school. Chef once said to me that nobody needs to dine in our restaurants they have their dollars and can go anywhere and spend them; he reiterated that the true value in anything we cooked was not the cost but the quality of the dish and the customers dining pleasure. Today some of these dishes we serve in education are becoming too expensive

So let's talk about it

Chef.

Where have our standards gone?

Here we go again another perfect example of why Edward Deming called higher education administrations the ultimate example of anarchy in high places. Sadly in my past college  are not attempting to replace me with another certified master chef for the near future but they can retain the chef in residence that does not contribute or assist the academic standards that have been set by faculty members both past and present. If we look around the country especially in our field of professional activities we have seen standards been eroded away and accepted by the general public.
When we allow the so-called chefs to come to a national convention who doesn't even dress properly blue jeans and then demeans the apprentices trying to assist him during his demonstration and we call him chef. I call him showbiz clown that should stay in that area of entertainment. We venerate these people who use foul language, verbally abuse other professionals and call him chef . Where is our voice in preventing this aberrant behavior and why arnt we saying this is enough and this is not what we are.  Unfortunately even today the thinking in this country is that I've you can do nothing else to go into food service either as a cook or a waiter. I interviewed a student one day with her father who quite honestly told me that he hoped that she would get over becoming a chef and get a real job. After I threw him out of my office, I told the young lady that if she really has the passion she would become very successful. Today she is a restaurant owner, has a wonderful life and contributes a lot back to our community.
So we have to now open our windows and yell I'm tired of this and we've had enough of this demeaning behavior. We need to move forward and believe we are the professionals who spend our lives learning and perfecting our craft. We as chefs and cooks need to set the professional standards that we respect and encourage every new young person who comes in and looks at us for leadership. Chef once said to me that I needed God in my everyday life as a cook and he added to that that God's stood for good orderly direction. So finally where are the clowns I hope they're no longer in our kitchens only if we accept them as those who are not worthy to be in our profession

Culinary disasters

Here we go again of people who want to open restaurants without any prior experience and expect to be successful. The fact is that if 100 new restaurants open today 60 would have failed in the first year and only three will have the original ownerships after five years. It's a sad chronicle of events when we think that people have a couple good recipes and then dress up in a chefs coat on and become the culinary genius. As we all know our profession is one of the most demanding of any career in the professional arena. My chef once said to me that this was a young man's business today its young man and woman's business and it has many casualties from the extensive amount of hours that we work and the lack of time we have with their families.

We all know that we work hard and play hard and we see an awful lot of our colleagues succumbing to drugs and alcohol and broken marriages. What can we do to improve our image is quite simple to be totally devoted to our craft but learn good time management so that we can have quality time with our families and friends. I have lost many friends to alcohol and drugs I have also seen some of the most loving marriages break up due to the loneliness that our spouses feel. My wife in the past used to call herself a kitchen widow and quite rightly so. As I am retiring soon it's her time do what she wants to do where we travel, and what her aspirations are for the rest of her life. I would not have been so successful in my career have been for her supporting encouraging and cheering me on be successful. I would not be a master chef today without her I would not own my own business today without her so when you decide to become a culinary genius and only business my advice is to have a great team player supporting you is if you don't you cannot succeed without a great family great friends and dedicated colleagues.

Braising and Stewing

Stewing

Definition

Stewing is the slow cooking of food cut into pieces and cooked in the minimum amount of liquid (water, stock or sauce); the food and liquid are served together.

Purpose

Because stewing is both economical and nutritional, cheaper cuts of meat and poultry, which would be unsuitable for roasting and grilling, can be made tender and palatable.

Stewing also produces an acceptable flavour, texture and eating quality.

Methods of Stewing

All stews have a thickened consistency achieved by:

a.)   The unpassed ingredients in the stew, e.g. Irish stew;

b.)   Thickening of the cooking liquor, e.g. blanquette (white stew);

c.)   Cooking in the sauce, e.g. brown stew.

Stewed foods can be cooked in a covered pan on the stove or in a moderate oven.

Foods cooked by stewing

Fish – bouillabaisse (French soup/stew).

Meat – goulash, minced beef, haricot mutton, Irish stew, brown stew of veal, white stew       of veal

Poultry – chicken fricassee, curried chicken, tripe and onions, jugged hare

Vegetables – marrow provencale, rataouille

Braising

Definition

Braising is the method of cooking in the oven; unlike roasting or baking the food is cooked in liquid in a covered pan, casserole or cocotte.  It is a combination of stewing and pot roasting.

Purpose

a.)   To give variety to the menu and the diet.

b.)   To make food tender, digestible, palatable, and safe to eat

c.)   To produce and enhance flavour, texture and eating quality.

Methods of braising

There are two methods:  brown braising, used for joints and portion-sized cuts of meat; white braising, used for vegetables and sweetbreads.

1       Brown braising:

a.)   Joints, e.g. beef, venison, are marinaded and may be larded then sealed quickly by browning on all sides in a hot oven or in a pan on the stove.  Sealing the joints helps retain flavour, nutritive value and gives a good brown colour.  Joints are then placed on a bed of roots in a braising pan, with the liquid and other flavourings, covered with a lid and cooked slowly in the oven.

b.)   Cuts, e.g. steaks, chops, liver.  The brown braising of cuts of meat is similar to that of joints.

2       White braising: e.g. celery, cabbage and sweetbreads.  These are blanched, refreshed, cooked on a bed of roots with white stock in a covered container in the oven.

Examples of foods which are braised

Farinaceous – rice

Meat: lamb – hearts, chops

            beef – olives, joints, liver

            veal – shoulder

Poultry – duck

Vegetables – celery, onions

Poached Fish

Although recipes 50-60 are given for fillets of sole, any white fish may be prepared and served in the following manner.  Always place a little sauce under the fish before masking; this is to keep the fish moist, to prevent it overcooking and sticking to the dish, thus facilitating the service.  Shallots must be finely chopped and may need to be sweated in a little butter before use.

Fillets of sole Duglere  

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  

500-600g         1-1 ¼ lb          2 soles

10g                  ½ oz                finely chopped shallot

200g                8 oz                 tomatoes concassee

                                                pinch chopped parsley

                                                salt, pepper

60 ml               1/8 pt               fish stock

60 ml               1/8 pt               dry white wine

                                                juice of ¼ lemon

250 ml             ½ pt                 fish veloute

50 g                 2 oz                 butter

METHOD:                                                                                                                            

q  Remove the black and white skins and fillet the soles.

q  Wash and drain well.

q  Butter and season an earthenware dish or sauté pan.

q  Sprinkle in the sweated chopped shallots.

q  Add the fillets, which may be folded in two, add the tomatoes and chopped parsley.

q  Season with salt and pepper.

q  Add the fish stock, wine and the lemon juice.

q  Cover with a buttered greaseproof paper.

Irish Stew- 4 portions

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  

500g    1lb 4 oz           stewing lamb

                                    bouqet garni

400g    1 lb                  potatoes

100g    4 oz                 onions

100g    4 oz                 celery

100g    4 oz                 Savoy cabbage

100g    4 oz                 leeks

100g    4 oz                 button onions

                                    chopped parsley

METHOD:                                                                                                                            

q  Trim the meat and cut into even pieces.  Blanch and refresh.

q  Place in a sauteuse or shallow saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil, season with salt and skim.  If tough meat is being used, allow ½ - 1 hr stewing before adding any vegetables.

q  Add the bouquet garni.  Turn the potatoes into barrel shapes.

q  Cut the potato trimmings, onions, celery, cabbage and leeks into small neat pieces, and add to the meat, simmer for 30 min.

q  Add the button onions, and simmer for a further 30 min.

q  Add the potatoes and simmer gently, with a lid on the pan until cooked.

q  Correct the seasoning and skim off all fat.

q  Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

q  Optional accompaniments: Worcester sauce or pickled red cabbage.

Boiled Silverside, Carrots and Dumplings – 4 portions

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  

400g    1lb       silverside

200g    8oz      onions

200g    8oz      carrots

100g    4oz      suet paste

METHOD:                                                                                                                            

q  Soak the meat in cold water to remove excess brine for 1 – 2 hr.

q  Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer 45 min.

q  Add whole prepared onions and carrots and simmer until cooked

q  Divide the suet paste into 8 even pieces, lightly mould into balls.

q  Add the dumplings and simmer for a further 15 – 20 min.

q  Serve by carving the meat across the grain, garnish with carrots, onions, and dumplings and moisten with a little of the cooking liquor.

Note:   It is usual to cook a large joint of silverside (approx. 6kg (12 lb)), in which case it is necessary to soak it overnight and to allow 25 min per ½ kg (1 lb) plus 25 min.

Braised Steaks

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  

400g                1 lb                  stewing beef

25g                  1 oz                 fat or oil

75g                  3 oz                 onions

75g                  3 oz                 carrots

25g                  1 oz                 flour, browned in the oven

25g                  1 oz                 tomato puree

750ml              1 ½ pt              brown stock

                                                bouquet garni

                                                clove of garlic (if desired)

                                                seasoning

METHOD:                                                                                                                            

q  Remove excess sinew and fat form the beef.

q  Cut into ½ - 1 cm (1/4 – 1/2 in) thick steaks.

q  Fry quickly in hot fat till lightly browned.

q  Add the mirepox (roughly cut onions and carrot) and continue frying to a golden colour.  Mix in the flour.

q  Add the tomato puree and stir in with a wooden spoon

q  Mix in the stock, bring to the boil and skim.

q  Add the bouquet garni and garlic, season and cover with a lid and simmer gently till cooked, preferably in the oven, approx. 1 1/2  - 2 hr.

q  When cooked place the meat into a clean pan.

q  Correct the sauce and pass on to the meat.

q  Serve in an entrée dish with chopped parsley.

q  Braised steaks may be garnished with vegetables cut in macedoine or jardinière, or turned or cut in neat, even pieces.

Traditional Irish Recipes

Boiled Beef – Corned Beef and Cabbage – 4 portions

Ingredients:                                                                                                                           

            1 lb 8 oz                      thin flank or brisket

                                                salt, pepper

            1                                  head celery

            8 oz                             leek

                                                small cabbage

            8 oz                             onion

            4 oz                             turnips

            8 oz                             carrots

Method:                                                                                                                                 

      Blanch and refresh the meat

      Place in a clean pan and cover with cold water

      Bring to a boil and skim, season and allow to simmer

      Prepare all the vegetables by tying the celery and leek into bundles and by tying the cabbage to keep it n one piece, and leaving the rest of the vegetables whole.

      After the meat has simmered for 30 minutes, add the celery, onions and carrots and continue cooking for 30 minutes.

      Add the leek, cabbage and turnips and continue cooking till all is tender, approx. 2-2 ½ hours in all.

      Serve by carving the meat in slices against the grain, garnish with the vegetables and a little liquor over the meat.

This dish may be accompanied by pickled gherkins and coarse salt.

Boiled Beef – Corned Beef and Cabbage – 4 portions

Ingredients:                                                                                                                           

            1 lb 8 oz                      thin flank or brisket

                                                salt, pepper

            1                                  head celery

            8 oz                             leek

                                                small cabbage

            8 oz                             onion

            4 oz                             turnips

            8 oz                             carrots

Method:                                                                                                                                 

      Blanch and refresh the meat

      Place in a clean pan and cover with cold water

      Bring to a boil and skim, season and allow to simmer

      Prepare all the vegetables by tying the celery and leek into bundles and by tying the cabbage to keep it n one piece, and leaving the rest of the vegetables whole.

      After the meat has simmered for 30 minutes, add the celery, onions and carrots and continue cooking for 30 minutes.

      Add the leek, cabbage and turnips and continue cooking till all is tender, approx. 2-2 ½ hours in all.

      Serve by carving the meat in slices against the grain, garnish with the vegetables and a little liquor over the meat.

This dish may be accompanied by pickled gherkins and coarse salt.

 

Classical Cuts of a Tenderloin

There is a lot of misinformation on what a beef tenderloin is for end-users in a classical kitchen. With all the great dishes that Escoffier created the beef tenderloin was a focal point of many of the most famous people in his era. For instance the great composer Rossini had a passion for fresh truffles goose liver, and a souce made from a Demi Glace which historically was served to him after his opera failed. During that era the royalty of Europe tried to engage him to be their chef  but he declined,  yet when he came to London in the late 1890s with Caesar Ritz he became the focal point of many fine dinners served to Prince Edward the son of Queen Victoria and later the king of England in private dining room,

The tenderloin is split into four classical pieces

 The first cut is ;the Château Briand  which is served as a roasted piece of meat normally for two people in his car tableside in front of the guests and include such things as a Boquetiere of vegetables and normally served with a fat  rich sauce such as Bernaise or a fat enriched Demi glace which normally would include the addition of poached beef marrow to increase its flavor

The filet which is the centercut of the muscle is normally grilled and served with varying sauces including hollandaise, or a hotel butter or defined rich sauce which is normally named after either a classical personality or event. In all cases except for the Château Briand all grilled meats are served on a crouton of fried bread so that the blood from the filet can be absorbed without damaging the sauce. It also should be remembered that Escoffier wrote recipes in memory of some great battles of the Napoleonic war including the battle of Marengo in Italy.

The tournedoes or the very small cuts from next to the tail of the tenderloin have many classical applications. Many dishes using this cut of meat which can be also found on veal tenderloin and venison tenderloin have a great opportunity for the chef be very creative.iEscoffier wrote a lot recipes were very famous womensome of which were rumored to be his mistresses during his lifetime. In the 1890s there were many famous composers actors and singers such as Sarah Bernhardt, Dame Melba, Princess Marie Louise who in his book he created some great dishes using the tournedoes.

The tail piece is called the filet minigon which is used in dishes such as strongonoff , the spaghetti Bolognese,

The pieces of meat retained from the chain are normally cut into strips and again can be used for many dishes including Fajitas or beef curries.

Today sadly very few chefs utilize this wonderful piece of mea the way it should be,so look at Escoffier's book and you'll probably find at least 150 dishes utilizing these cuts which in reality are a wonderful way to express your culinary talents in the future.
Lets get cooking

Chef