Sunday, March 13, 2011

Classical cooking

In Modern America today classical French cooking is so poorly practiced and ignored.  There are many chefs and cooks because the lack of their knowledge of this type of cooking produce food which I would call a best mediocre.  And no saying and I quote “where ignorance is bliss it's a folly to be wise “but in reality all the cooking concepts that we use in our kitchens day comes from classical French cooking. Whether we make a sauce a soup, we roast that chicken to perfection, or braise that veal shank so that is succulent and ever pleasing to the dining public.
When I was an apprentice, every apprentice within the United Kingdom was taught the same way using the same references and most of all practicing the same techniques.  The strength of that whole concept was that we were all trained under the brigade system.  From day one we were taught the techniques of Escoffier, who is very little variation of the interpretation of his works and during my apprenticeship there was very little difference in any of the fine houses and in Europe.  My chef sent me to work under Madam Prunier to expose me to fine classical fish cookery. The first day I arrived in the kitchen the chef came to me and said you are going on the saucier station.  As we all know this is the heart of the kitchen and one has to understand the basics of good sauce making. It was during Lent and we started to get fish orders demanding a dish with a lenting demi glace. I mention this last year to prove that many of the chefs were not classically trained. And I was saddened that only 2/7 chefs understood the concept. To reflect on my experience at that great restaurant was that I was taught how to fish to perfection utilizing great sauces garnishes and finishing products to please the guests.
In reflection, I was very lucky I was trying to one of the finest chef’s world has ever seen an apprentice himself of Escoffier and a wonderful mentor and I always: my second father. Not only was he a great chef he instilled in me that mediocrity was not part of our life and perfection and pleasing our guests is a most important thing we do for the rest of our lives. This year I had the pleasure of working with Chef Peter Timmins CMC we did it wine dinner together and then we demonstrate his interpretation of the modern classical French cooking whilst I did the original interpretation as per Escoffier. We were in the theater 240 other people who were amazed to see that technique was the same with the presentation was totally different. Any chef whose worth his weight in gold needs to be classically trained he or she needs to understand these vital techniques that our guests are looking for a good example of that is American barbecue sauce.  It actually originated from sauce diable or as the French called it devil sauce. When the French Creole came to Louisiana they broth or cooking culture with them because they had African-American cooks who introduced different flavorings to the sauce. For instance Brown sugar more vinegar tomatoes, and salsify which is a basis of the modern American barbeque sauce. Gumbo is another variation of the original Mock turtle soup so as we grew as a culture we found a way to take those classic or cooking methods and turn them into Great American regional cusine. So this book is dedicated to getting back to the basics of classical cooking, to enable an apprentice or a learner cook the opportunity to move forward and be successful in our industry. A lot of the recipes are from Escoffier,and  my apprenticeship notes, and a lot of my great friends who inspired me along the way. So let's start to talk about classical French cooking, and at the end of the day it were better us as a professional chef's and in the long-term please the Great American diner. A final quote Escoffier was one asked what makes a great chef he replied and I quote”Sir the world's greatest chefs in my mind are the world's greatest cooks” for the lack of those basic cooking skills the result will be mediocrity and not please our guests so let's get started and try to become one of the world's greatest cooks.
John.Kinsella CMC

2 comments:

  1. Methods of cooking terms
    Moist methods.
    Poaching.
    Definition: To simmer foods gently in stocks or poaching liquids
    Products you can Poach.
    Eggs, Fruits both fresh and dried., Fish, Pastas such as Gnocchi, ravioli, Spatzel.
    Classical Shallow Poaching Examples.
    Eggs Benedict
    Poached pears in red wine Pear Bell Helene
    Poached sole bon Femme, Poached Salmon Sauce Bernaise.
    Gnocchi Parisienne
    Deep Poaching Examples
    Whole salmon ( Court Bouillon)
    Ravioli Milanese
    Stewing:
    Definition: : to cook lass tender meats fruits game and fish in a enriched stock or sauce. To simmer gently until the product is tender and to finish with a garnishes such as:
    Jardinière of vegetables,
    Mélange of vegetables
    Tourne of vegetables
    Brunoise of vegetables
    Classical stews.
    Navarin of Lamb ( Red Stew)
    Ragout de Beuf (Brown Beef Stew.)
    Blanquette of Veal ( White Veal stew)
    Fricassee Of Chicken
    Irish Stew,
    Curried Chicken
    Ratatouille
    Jugged Hare
    Compote of fruits
    Braising:
    Is a method of cooking food in a liquid in a covered pane ,casserole, or a cocotte. Termed as half stewing and pot roasting. Large pieces of meats, poultry fish and game are cooked with this method.
    There are two types of braising methods:
    1. Brown braises
    2. White Braises
    Classical Brown Braises
    1. Boeuf ala Mode Braises beef of a style
    2. Paupiettes de Boeuf Braises stuffed beef olives
    3. Coeure d’agnrau braise farce Braised lamb hearts
    4. Noix de veau braise Braised veal
    5. Ris de veau braise ( a Brun) Braised veal sweetbreads (brown)
    6. Poulet poele en cocotte Braised Chicken in a dish
    7. Poireeaux braise Braised Leeks
    Classical White Braises
    1. Ris de Veau (Blanc) Braise sweetbreads in a white sauce
    2. Osso Bucco Braised Veal Shanks
    3. Rice pilaf braised rice
    4. Laitue Braisee Braised lettuce
    5. Oignons Braise Braised Onions
    6. Pommes Boulangiere Braised Potatoes
    7. Pommes Fondantes Braised Turned potatoes in butter
    Steaming:
    To cook under low or high pressure to varying degrees of doneness

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  2. I was judging a competition a few months ago and a classical dish Poulet sauté Chaseaur was presented to me. It had no tomato concasse, shallots, and most of all no chervil. I questioned the contestant and the response was that this was his interputation of the dish and a modern presentation of the dish. Even the classical 13 cuts of a whole chicken was wrong and I remarked when you presents a classical dish it must meet the ingredients and the butchery skills listed by Escoffier. The contestant went into a diatribe ranting and raving that classical cooking and following Le Guide Culiniere was dated and not used
    I mentioned to the contestant the terms sauté was a classical term used by Escoffier and still used today. His response to me that it was the fetal matter of a bull. A sad response to a disqualifed competitor. The fact is that we need to respect the traditions of our craft and not make excuses for not studying the founder of the modern approach to classical cuisine.
    I rest my case.

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