Monday, February 27, 2012

Braising and Stewing

Stewing


Definition


Stewing is the slow cooking of food cut into pieces and cooked in the minimum amount of liquid (water, stock or sauce); the food and liquid are served together.

Purpose


Because stewing is both economical and nutritional, cheaper cuts of meat and poultry, which would be unsuitable for roasting and grilling, can be made tender and palatable.
Stewing also produces an acceptable flavour, texture and eating quality.

Methods of Stewing


All stews have a thickened consistency achieved by:

a.)   The unpassed ingredients in the stew, e.g. Irish stew;
b.)   Thickening of the cooking liquor, e.g. blanquette (white stew);
c.)   Cooking in the sauce, e.g. brown stew.

Stewed foods can be cooked in a covered pan on the stove or in a moderate oven.

Foods cooked by stewing


Fish – bouillabaisse (French soup/stew).
Meat – goulash, minced beef, haricot mutton, Irish stew, brown stew of veal, white stew       of veal
Poultry – chicken fricassee, curried chicken, tripe and onions, jugged hare
Vegetables – marrow provencale, rataouille


Braising


Definition


Braising is the method of cooking in the oven; unlike roasting or baking the food is cooked in liquid in a covered pan, casserole or cocotte.  It is a combination of stewing and pot roasting.

Purpose


a.)   To give variety to the menu and the diet.
b.)   To make food tender, digestible, palatable, and safe to eat
c.)   To produce and enhance flavour, texture and eating quality.

Methods of braising


There are two methods:  brown braising, used for joints and portion-sized cuts of meat; white braising, used for vegetables and sweetbreads.

1       Brown braising:
a.)   Joints, e.g. beef, venison, are marinaded and may be larded then sealed quickly by browning on all sides in a hot oven or in a pan on the stove.  Sealing the joints helps retain flavour, nutritive value and gives a good brown colour.  Joints are then placed on a bed of roots in a braising pan, with the liquid and other flavourings, covered with a lid and cooked slowly in the oven.
b.)   Cuts, e.g. steaks, chops, liver.  The brown braising of cuts of meat is similar to that of joints.

2       White braising: e.g. celery, cabbage and sweetbreads.  These are blanched, refreshed, cooked on a bed of roots with white stock in a covered container in the oven.

Examples of foods which are braised

Farinaceous – rice
Meat: lamb – hearts, chops
            beef – olives, joints, liver
            veal – shoulder
Poultry – duck
Vegetables – celery, onions




Poached Fish


Although recipes 50-60 are given for fillets of sole, any white fish may be prepared and served in the following manner.  Always place a little sauce under the fish before masking; this is to keep the fish moist, to prevent it overcooking and sticking to the dish, thus facilitating the service.  Shallots must be finely chopped and may need to be sweated in a little butter before use.

Fillets of sole Duglere  


INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  
500-600g         1-1 ¼ lb          2 soles
10g                  ½ oz                finely chopped shallot
200g                8 oz                 tomatoes concassee
                                                pinch chopped parsley
                                                salt, pepper
60 ml               1/8 pt               fish stock
60 ml               1/8 pt               dry white wine
                                                juice of ¼ lemon
250 ml             ½ pt                 fish veloute
50 g                 2 oz                 butter
METHOD:                                                                                                                            

q  Remove the black and white skins and fillet the soles.
q  Wash and drain well.
q  Butter and season an earthenware dish or sauté pan.
q  Sprinkle in the sweated chopped shallots.
q  Add the fillets, which may be folded in two, add the tomatoes and chopped parsley.
q  Season with salt and pepper.
q  Add the fish stock, wine and the lemon juice.
q  Cover with a buttered greaseproof paper.



Irish Stew- 4 portions

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  

500g    1lb 4 oz           stewing lamb
                                    bouqet garni
400g    1 lb                  potatoes
100g    4 oz                 onions
100g    4 oz                 celery
100g    4 oz                 Savoy cabbage
100g    4 oz                 leeks
100g    4 oz                 button onions
                                    chopped parsley
METHOD:                                                                                                                            
q  Trim the meat and cut into even pieces.  Blanch and refresh.
q  Place in a sauteuse or shallow saucepan, cover with water, bring to the boil, season with salt and skim.  If tough meat is being used, allow ½ - 1 hr stewing before adding any vegetables.
q  Add the bouquet garni.  Turn the potatoes into barrel shapes.
q  Cut the potato trimmings, onions, celery, cabbage and leeks into small neat pieces, and add to the meat, simmer for 30 min.
q  Add the button onions, and simmer for a further 30 min.
q  Add the potatoes and simmer gently, with a lid on the pan until cooked.
q  Correct the seasoning and skim off all fat.
q  Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.
q  Optional accompaniments: Worcester sauce or pickled red cabbage.



Boiled Silverside, Carrots and Dumplings – 4 portions

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  
400g    1lb       silverside
200g    8oz      onions
200g    8oz      carrots
100g    4oz      suet paste
METHOD:                                                                                                                            
q  Soak the meat in cold water to remove excess brine for 1 – 2 hr.
q  Place in a saucepan and cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skim and simmer 45 min.
q  Add whole prepared onions and carrots and simmer until cooked
q  Divide the suet paste into 8 even pieces, lightly mould into balls.
q  Add the dumplings and simmer for a further 15 – 20 min.
q  Serve by carving the meat across the grain, garnish with carrots, onions, and dumplings and moisten with a little of the cooking liquor.
Note:   It is usual to cook a large joint of silverside (approx. 6kg (12 lb)), in which case it is necessary to soak it overnight and to allow 25 min per ½ kg (1 lb) plus 25 min.


Braised Steaks

INGREDIENTS:                                                                                                                  
400g                1 lb                  stewing beef
25g                  1 oz                 fat or oil
75g                  3 oz                 onions
75g                  3 oz                 carrots
25g                  1 oz                 flour, browned in the oven
25g                  1 oz                 tomato puree
750ml              1 ½ pt              brown stock
                                                bouquet garni
                                                clove of garlic (if desired)
                                                seasoning
METHOD:                                                                                                                            
q  Remove excess sinew and fat form the beef.
q  Cut into ½ - 1 cm (1/4 – 1/2 in) thick steaks.
q  Fry quickly in hot fat till lightly browned.
q  Add the mirepox (roughly cut onions and carrot) and continue frying to a golden colour.  Mix in the flour.
q  Add the tomato puree and stir in with a wooden spoon
q  Mix in the stock, bring to the boil and skim.
q  Add the bouquet garni and garlic, season and cover with a lid and simmer gently till cooked, preferably in the oven, approx. 1 1/2  - 2 hr.
q  When cooked place the meat into a clean pan.
q  Correct the sauce and pass on to the meat.
q  Serve in an entrée dish with chopped parsley.
q  Braised steaks may be garnished with vegetables cut in macedoine or jardinière, or turned or cut in neat, even pieces.


Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Traditional Irish Recipes

Boiled Beef – Corned Beef and Cabbage – 4 portions

Ingredients:                                                                                                                           

            1 lb 8 oz                      thin flank or brisket
                                                salt, pepper
            1                                  head celery
            8 oz                             leek
                                                small cabbage
            8 oz                             onion
            4 oz                             turnips
            8 oz                             carrots

Method:                                                                                                                                 

      Blanch and refresh the meat
      Place in a clean pan and cover with cold water
      Bring to a boil and skim, season and allow to simmer
      Prepare all the vegetables by tying the celery and leek into bundles and by tying the cabbage to keep it n one piece, and leaving the rest of the vegetables whole.
      After the meat has simmered for 30 minutes, add the celery, onions and carrots and continue cooking for 30 minutes.
      Add the leek, cabbage and turnips and continue cooking till all is tender, approx. 2-2 ½ hours in all.
      Serve by carving the meat in slices against the grain, garnish with the vegetables and a little liquor over the meat.

This dish may be accompanied by pickled gherkins and coarse salt.

Boiled Beef – Corned Beef and Cabbage – 4 portions

Ingredients:                                                                                                                           

            1 lb 8 oz                      thin flank or brisket
                                                salt, pepper
            1                                  head celery
            8 oz                             leek
                                                small cabbage
            8 oz                             onion
            4 oz                             turnips
            8 oz                             carrots

Method:                                                                                                                                 

      Blanch and refresh the meat
      Place in a clean pan and cover with cold water
      Bring to a boil and skim, season and allow to simmer
      Prepare all the vegetables by tying the celery and leek into bundles and by tying the cabbage to keep it n one piece, and leaving the rest of the vegetables whole.
      After the meat has simmered for 30 minutes, add the celery, onions and carrots and continue cooking for 30 minutes.
      Add the leek, cabbage and turnips and continue cooking till all is tender, approx. 2-2 ½ hours in all.
      Serve by carving the meat in slices against the grain, garnish with the vegetables and a little liquor over the meat.

This dish may be accompanied by pickled gherkins and coarse salt.


 

Monday, January 16, 2012

Classical Cuts of a Tenderloin


There is a lot of misinformation on what a beef tenderloin is for end-users in a classical kitchen. With all the great dishes that Escoffier created the beef tenderloin was a focal point of many of the most famous people in his era. For instance the great composer Rossini had a passion for fresh truffles goose liver, and a souce made from a Demi Glace which historically was served to him after his opera failed. During that era the royalty of Europe tried to engage him to be their chef  but he declined,  yet when he came to London in the late 1890s with Caesar Ritz he became the focal point of many fine dinners served to Prince Edward the son of Queen Victoria and later the king of England in private dining room,

The tenderloin is split into four classical pieces

 The first cut is ;the Château Briand  which is served as a roasted piece of meat normally for two people in his car tableside in front of the guests and include such things as a Boquetiere of vegetables and normally served with a fat  rich sauce such as Bernaise or a fat enriched Demi glace which normally would include the addition of poached beef marrow to increase its flavor

The filet which is the centercut of the muscle is normally grilled and served with varying sauces including hollandaise, or a hotel butter or defined rich sauce which is normally named after either a classical personality or event. In all cases except for the Château Briand all grilled meats are served on a crouton of fried bread so that the blood from the filet can be absorbed without damaging the sauce. It also should be remembered that Escoffier wrote recipes in memory of some great battles of the Napoleonic war including the battle of Marengo in Italy.

The tournedoes or the very small cuts from next to the tail of the tenderloin have many classical applications. Many dishes using this cut of meat which can be also found on veal tenderloin and venison tenderloin have a great opportunity for the chef be very creative.iEscoffier wrote a lot recipes were very famous womensome of which were rumored to be his mistresses during his lifetime. In the 1890s there were many famous composers actors and singers such as Sarah Bernhardt, Dame Melba, Princess Marie Louise who in his book he created some great dishes using the tournedoes.

The tail piece is called the filet minigon which is used in dishes such as strongonoff , the spaghetti Bolognese,

The pieces of meat retained from the chain are normally cut into strips and again can be used for many dishes including Fajitas or beef curries.

Today sadly very few chefs utilize this wonderful piece of mea the way it should be,so look at Escoffier's book and you'll probably find at least 150 dishes utilizing these cuts which in reality are a wonderful way to express your culinary talents in the future.
Lets get cooking

Chef

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Saute classical dishes

Poulet Sauté Bercy

Season the pieces of chicken and sauté them in butter; starting with the legs then the thighs then the wings make sure that the breasts are cooked last.  The cooking principles of sauté chicken is to cook the tough pieces first and the tender last do not burn the pieces by over cooking or frying the poultry to fast.
When cooked, arrange in a deep dish or platter, cover and keep warm.

Ingredients:
1 whole Chicken Cut into eights
1 tbsp chopped shallots
1 dl (3 ½ fl oz or ½ U.S. cup) white wine
½ dl (2 fl oz or ¼ U.S.cup) meat glaze
The juice of  ½ a lemon
50 g (2 oz) butter
5 poached chipolatas
100 g (3 ½ oz) sliced mushrooms.

Method
  1. Using the same sauté pan add 1 tbsp chopped shallots to the pan and cook for a few seconds.
  2.  Deglaze with 1 dl (3 ½ fl oz or ½ U.S. cup) white wine and reduce by half.
  3.  Add ½ dl (2 fl oz or ¼ U.S. cup) meat glaze, the juice of  ½ a lemon, 50 g (2 oz) butter., 5 poached chipolatas cut in slices.
  4. 100 g (3 ½ oz) sliced mushrooms sautéed in butter. Rectify the sauce and pour the whole sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Recipe for chipolata sausages is in
Professional Charcutiere  by John Kinsella CMC John Wiley and Sons

Chicken sauté chasseur
Poulet sauté chasseur


4 portions
10 portions
butter, margarine oil
50g (2 oz)
125g (5 oz)
chicken cut for sauté 1¼-1½ kg (2½-3 lb)
1
2½
chopped shallots
10g ( ½ oz)
25g (1 oz)
button mushrooms
100g (4 oz)
250g (10 oz)
dry white wine and brandy
3 tbsp
8 tbsp
jus-lie or demi-glace tomato flavored
250ml ( ½ pt)
625ml (1¼ pt)
tomatoes
200g (8 oz)
500g ( 1 ¼ lb)
chopped parsley and tarragon
Spring

Chopped parsley and Chervel
Summer

Chopped tarragon and chervil
Fall




1. Place the butter, margarine or oil in a sauté pan on a fairly hot stove.

2. Season the pieces of chicken and place in the pan in the following order: drumsticks,
    thighs, carcass, wings, wingless, and breast.

3. Cook to a golden brown on both sides.

4. Cover with a lid and cook on the stove or in the oven until tender.  Dress neatly in a suitable dish.

5. Add the shallot to the sauté pan, cover with a lid, cook on a gentle heat for 1-2 minutes without colour.

6.  Add the washed sliced mushrooms and tarragon and cover with a lid; cook gently for 3-4 minutes without colour.  Drain off fat.

7. Add the white wine and reduce by half.  Add the sauce.

8. Add the tomate concassé; simmer for 5 minutes.

9. Correct the seasoning and pour over the chicken.

10. Sprinkle with chopped Parsley and serve.

Note: Ballottines of chicken chasseur can be prepared as above or lightly braised. And served the same way using the finishing sauce methods.

Poultry.  Volaille
The definition of poultry refers to all domestically bred fowl for human consumption, such as geese, turkeys, ducks, and chickens.  Game birds are not included in this definition to date.  The USDA will be reviewing the definition to include domestically raised game birds.  Until then, we must still categorize them as game and treat them as such.
When the term Volaille, is used in a menu or within a dish, only chicken can be used as the main protein.   Chickens, historically have been categorized into the following classical groups. The reasoning behind this rational is quite simple.  The smaller the bird, the more tender and flavorful will be the cooking result.   Remember the bone structure of a chicken contributes 15 to 20% of the total weight of the bird.  In farm raised birds the total fat content is about 10%, but in a*battery raised chicken the fat content is about 17 to19 %.  An easy identifier the fat in a battery chicken will have a yellowish hue and the leg meat will be much darker when cooked.   Another factor is that the meat content in most domestic fowl will always make up 60% of the content after cooking. Let us now breakdown chickens in the classical manner including classical terminology, age factor, and the most appropriate cooking method.  .
Chicken
Type
 Classical Name
Age
Cooking Methods
Baby Chicken
Poussin
4 to 6 weeks
Roasting Grilling
Broiler
Poulet degrain
3 to 5 months
Roasting, grilling
Roaster

Poulet reine
Fully developed Chicken usually weighs between 2 to 3 pounds
Roasting, grilling, sauté, and chicken breasts.     
        
Poularde
Poularde
Fully grown usually about 6 months old
Roasting, casserole, Galantines, Pates and terrines
Capon

Castrated cockerel
5 to 7 pounds
Roasting Sausages Smoking Terrines
Boiler

Poule
12 Pounds
Stock Aspic Sausage meats


Average weights
Baby chickens: 1 pound.  Roaster: 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 pounds.  Poulardes: 3 pounds  Capons:  5 to 7 pounds  Boilers: 7 to 10 pounds 
Quality control points for all fowl.
 There are vital quality points you need to remember.
1.      Check the temperature upon receiving
2.       Examine at least 50% of the product received
3.      Quality control at least 30% chicken from each box to ensure that the purchasing specifications are met or exceeded.
Look for the following signs of quality
    • Plump breast with a pliable breast bone and firm flesh
    • White skin with no breaks or tears in the skin. 
    • The skin should have a blue tint with a snow-white complex.
    • No blood spots, scores or any type of abscess.
    • Bones should be fine texture and the leg bones should be short and well endowed with meat.
As we no longer gut and clean chickens I still think its imperative that a chef or cook should have a basic knowledge of this important part of your culinary craft.
Drawing procedures for all fowl and game birds.
  1. Make sure that the poultry has no hairs or feather stubble
  2. Using a sharp boning knife remove the head at the base of the neck area.
  3. Clean of the top of the head and then separate the neck from the head
  4. Remove the lungs and crop and loosen the main intestine by cutting into the base of the neck.
  5. Turning the chicken towards you open the rectal area cutting downward and not crossways. 
  6. Using you forefingers remove the intestines making sure not to break the gall bladder (If you break the gall bladder a bitter bile acid will impregnate the bird and make it un usable)
  7. Cut off the gall bladder from the liver and throw it away.
  8. Flush out the cavity and wipe dry and bag immediately
  9. Place on ice and rotate fresh ice every four hours till you use the fowl