Wednesday, October 26, 2011

This Article I wrote for Sante Magazine needs to read

Should a chef need a license to cook?

When I came into this industry as an apprentice many years ago, there was little opportunity for me outside the kitchen. A chef earning a degree was unheard of, and most management trainees went to a hotel school, where they learned their technical skills and were taught how to manage people. In my youth I could not have imagined that I would manage a business or own a restaurant.
Much has changed. Chefs have ventured out of their kitchens to become owners and entrepreneurs. For example, Cincinnati’s Jean-Robert de Cavel has expanded his business to cover not only fine dining but also casual dining, and he now has niche restaurants in local communities. And even though he still cooks, de Cavel spends much of his time meeting with his guests, managing his restaurants, and developing new businesses.
We also see more students taking both associate and baccalaureate degrees to further their careers. I had to earn a higher degree to continue teaching in the profession. We are also witnessing more colleges offering master’s degrees in food science in the field of culinology.

Certification
One of the most significant advances in culinary education for me has been professional certification, which should be required to practice one’s profession.Now that top chefs have become “stars” in their communities and beyond, professional certification becomes even more important. Also, more hotels and restaurant companies are seeking out certified chefs to operate their businesses. For these reasons and others, the American Culinary Federation (ACF, acfchefs.org) is investing more than  a million dollars to improve its certification programs over the next three years.
The ACF is following the lead of the European Union, where licensure is required more than ever before. Why? One of the major reasons is that a chef, a restaurant manager, or a hotel may be held accountable if there is a serious outbreak of food poisoning—or any type of malfeasance. Individuals can be prohibited from working, and establishments can be shut down.
I honestly believe that both federal and state governments will require licensure in the near future. The rationale behind this is quite simple: The highest number of food-poisoning incidents in the United States today is in foodservice establishments. The most effective way to curtail food contamination and ensure the preparation of healthy foods will be licensure.
Safety and Discipline
In today’s world of instantaneous, round-the-clock media coverage, a chef’s image is more important than ever. Unfortunately, as the media glare brightens, we see more chefs and cooks dressed in clown outfits. Our dress code was designed for safety, not fashion. One should be able to shed all chef clothes within 30 seconds to prevent third-degree burns. When I was an apprentice, we were not allowed to use leather belts; we had to use string so that we could break it if we got scalding liquid on us. We had to wear clogs (so we could kick them off), cotton socks, and a loosely fitting jacket and apron.
In the past the brigade in the kitchen was extremely disciplined, as was the crew in the front of the house. There was a definite chain of command within the property, and everyone knew his or her place and job. In some modern kitchens and restaurants, I see organized chaos, which results in poor customer service and mediocre food. I see the lack of standardized recipes and service procedures—one of the sure signs of a failing business. Some of the major chain restaurants today invest much money in the training of their staffs, and I applaud their efforts. With the present economy teetering on the abyss of a recession, chefs and managers must become more innovative with the training and staffing of their establishments. Quite simply, we need to get back to the old disciplines and training techniques to meet the needs of our guests in the twenty-first century.
Check, please.

Duck Confit a great tasting appetizer

Duck Confit
A simple recipe for a great dish

Ingredients
  • 3 tablespoons salt
  • 4 cloves garlic, smashed
  • 1 shallot, peeled and sliced
  • 6 sprigs thyme
  • Coarsely ground black pepper
  • 4 duck legs with thighs
  • 4 duck wings, trimmed
  • About 4 cups duck fat
Preparation
1. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of a dish or plastic container large enough to hold the duck pieces in a single layer. Evenly scatter half the garlic, shallots, and thyme in the container. Arrange the duck, skin-side up, over the salt mixture, then sprinkle with the remaining salt, garlic, shallots, and thyme and a little pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 1-2 days.
2. Preheat the oven to 225°F. Melt the duck fat in a small saucepan. Brush the salt and seasonings off the duck. Arrange the duck pieces in a single snug layer in a high-sided baking dish or ovenproof saucepan. Pour the melted fat over the duck (the duck pieces should be covered by fat) and place the confit in the oven. Cook the confit slowly at a very slow simmer — just an occasional bubble — until the duck is tender and can be easily pulled from the bone, 2-3 hours. Remove the confit from the oven. Cool and store the duck in the fat. (The confit will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks.)
Note: The duck fat can be strained, cooled and reused.