Cooking IN Simple Steps CISS

 

Below is a link to videos on the ACF home page, where I demonstrate these two classical dishes. Not only is the cooking of the dish important but the actual preparation and skilled butchery techniques are required. In his lifetime Escoffier   found that most of his preparations and dishes were seasonal and as the season went by there would be a different flavor or Herb added to the dish to keep it topical. The two chicken dishes you see in the pictures are misrepresentations of the sauté chicken you see above. Unfortunately the cutting skills are not appropriate and it is difficult for how the basic recipe got diluted so much that it's unrecognizable in this form. There is a lot of disinformation on this dish. As I demonstrated in the video that a young chicken is used rather than a rooster.  Cutting the chicken into 13 pieces and utilizing the carcass for flavor during the sauté process which becomes the basis of the finished sauce. As we use a young chicken there is no need to remove the tendons from the legs on that the clause are attached this is reserved for mature birds such as roosters, pheasants, turkeys, and wild game birds such as ducks, and teals. In the chicken base the master chefs realized that the use of parsley and spring, chervil in summer and tarragon in the fall and winter were appropriate. Classically speaking the chicken was reconstructed on a platter carcass and all have presents to the guest tableside and it was portioned accordingly to the guests. The deglazing of the sauté pan reinforce the flavor of the Demi glaze in the finished sauce. As it was a hunter sauce the tomato concasse represented the torn flesh the animal. He found this style of cooking in provincial France as a young man and it was a great learning curve for him because he realized that the best food to serve was food in season. Today everybody is now going to farmers markets finding foods in season utilizing meat proteins and fish proteins in season has become vogue.  Sadly if we only read our books and the history of food this is how the modern French cuisine and about.

So enjoy the video most of all cut it fresh, cook it fresh, serve it fresh.

 Click on the link below and go to resorces. Click on resources and go to video libary and click on classical quartet.

http://www.acfchefs.org/         

Master Craftsmans Work

Menu compilation

            There are many hard and fast rules in the gastronomic laws must be observed if one is to obtain success, for a badly compiled menu will spoil the complete meal.  In composing the menu, the aim should be to express as far as possible the spirit of the occasion for which it is intended.  To be able to compose a luncheon or dinner menu is an art in itself, and the composing of an elaborate dinner menu needs great care in the selection of the various courses, so that each dish will harmonize with all of the others on the same menu.

            Some of the rules for menu writing are set out below, and should be followed if all round success is to be obtained:

1.            The requirements of the menu must depend on the occasion, the season, the number of people, the price being paid and the class of catering.

2.           

2.      Each dish should be different in composition and mode of cooking.

3.      The harmonizing effect is obtained by so arranging the dishes that each one is distinct from the other, bearing no relation in appearance to the preceding or the following dishes.

4.      No two similar vegetables garnished should ever be placed on the same menu, with the exception of mushrooms and truffles.

5.      The various meats and other important ingredients forming one complete course must not be repeated again on the same menu from one course to another.

6.      The various kinds of sauces and accompaniments employed must be entirely different in color, taste and appearance.

7.      The menu must be compiled with a view to successful service in the restaurant.  It is better to have fewer dishes or courses well cooked and correctly served than a pretentious, many coursed menu, which would put too much stress on the kitchen, its staff and equipment, and upon the service and the waiting staff.

8.      A careful selection of raw materials, having regard to the time and season of the year, must be made in all cases.

9.      Ensure the use of correct cookery terms and spelling – especially when using French.  Avoid repeating, “A la” on a menu; this term means “in the style of” and in many cases can be omitted.

10.    a.      Name the article – Sole, beef, duckling.

b.            Name the cut used – fillet, sirloin, wing.

c.             Name the place of origin – Dover, Angus, Aylesbury.

d.            Name the method of cooking – poached, roast, braised.

e.             Name the garnish and/or sauce – Duglere, horseradish, A l’orange.

         Examples:  Poached Filet of Dover Sole Duglere.

                            Roast Rib of Angus Beef, Horseradish Sauce.

                            Braised Wing of Aylesbury Duck, Orange Sauce.

11.    Never, write the word gravy on a menu.

12.    Sauces and/or garnishes are written directly after the dish to which they belong.  Add the vegetables after the main course and its sauce and/or garnish.  Follow the vegetables with the potato dish.

13.    Give a sufficient choice on the menu to satisfy the varying tastes and digestions of your clientele.

14.    Bear in mind quality, quantity, and from a customer’s point of view, “value for money”.

15.    Place on the menu dishes that at attractive and appetizing, and will combine together to form a well-balanced and pleasing meal.

                                               

Game both Furred and feathered

Game both Furred and feathered.

Le Gibier

When you talk about game we talk about why the animals that are harvested by hunting normally hung for at least five days prior to either plucking skinning or gutting them for use. The USDA requires that all proteins must be inspected prior use.  There have been many cases where chefs have butchered venison or rabbits in their kitchens and being fined because of them not following the inspection process.  In our kitchens today all game either comes and processed most of all inspected. A classical dish, Civet au Livet known as jugged hare, where the blood is used to thicken the sauce at the end of the cooking process.  Unfortunately that is not allowed any more. So where do we go from here yes game dishes are extremely popular especially in spring and autumn and in November especially in the Midwest in the fine dining restaurants they feature game as a premium dishes for that month.

Furred game: This includes venison, rabbit, hare, antelope bison moose and many other species.  Most of the larger animals have to be home for at least 10 to 14 days to accept the muscle tissue.  Rabbits when they come into our kitchens today are already skinned and ready to be boned for use.  A classical venison dish comes from the haunch or the loin as it's known in America. Venison chops are very popular and in the farm raised venison legs has enabled a chef to process them into smaller stakes in cuts for his menu.  Notably in the red meat animals must be cooked medium rare to infuse tenderness and flavor.  Of course a more pungent sauce is appropriate for these types of animals to remove the game he tastes that they sometimes leave after processing.

Feathered game: This includes pheasant quail, ostrich, Guinea hens, wild Turkey, wild ducks, and many other species.  All these animals come in processed and ready for use except from removing the tendons from the legs.

Preparation tips:

Bardering is defined as using a long needle and inserting thin strips of fat or smoked bacon under the skin to create moisture during the cooking process.

Marinades.

Marinades are divided into two categories either raw or cooked.  For long-term marinades cooked ones are recommended.  Marinades can have white or a red wine normally includes fresh herbs and vinegars. You will find a lot all the game meats marinated prior to cooking

Curing methods.

For long-term preservation here in methods are used especially with red meat game proteins.  You need to be extremely careful when you use cure is especially when you intend to do a long-term cure such as venison pastrami, game sausages, smoked pheasant, and many other animals that can be cured after processing.  The USDA, requires that all cured meats must meet their standards and conditions which can be found in my book professional charcuterie John Wiley & Sons 1996. 

Finally, the use of game on the menus is an exciting way to ensure creativity so I have been closed to simple recipes for you to enjoy and see where they take you in your creative minds.

The Myths and facts about Venison

I got a hunting license and I have a hunting rifle so I’m going to bag myself a deer.  Hold on! Wrong statement and wrong attitude.  Hunting wild game is not for those who want to blast away at every thing that moves.  Also after shooting the unfortunate deer the meat could be spoiled by buck shot.  After killing the beast do you to know how to break down the carcass. Here are some pointers.

Knowing how long to hang the carcass after the kill, 10 days in the usual time.

You cannot take the carcass to a local butcher unless you have it inspected by a USDA inspector or a state inspector.

You must dispose of the unusable parts properly burning or disposing them by using the burial process.

 Knowledge of cuts of meats you can get from the carcass.  Remember in the center of the carcass you will find the tender meats and the tougher meats will be located in the legs and shoulders.

Making marinades and brines to tenderize the meats are essential and most of all the duration of the time spent in the marinade or brine.  My recommendation is to buy the venison and there will be little risk in eating the meat for you and your guests.  Here are two great recipes using venison.  One was Henry the eight favorite stews.

Civet de Chevreuil

Jugged Venison

Ingredients.

4 pounds of dice venison shoulder.

 2 pints of red wine.

6 slices of smoked bacon

½ pound of large mushrooms

18 baby onions

¼ pint of venison blood.

¼ pint of cream

2 fl ounces brandy

2 ounces of flour.

2 ounces olive oil

2 ounces butter

Method

·         Marinade the venison in the read wine and herbs for 48 hours.

·         Remove the venison from the wine and dry.

·         Season the meat and toss it in the flour.

·         In a hot skillet add some olive oil and sear the meat until it goes golden brown.

·         Flame the meat in the brandy and add the wine. 

·         Simmer for about 1 and a half hours or until the meat is tender.  Add stock to the wine so that you will have enough liquid to finish the sauce.

·         Remove the meat from the wine and strain the wine through a fine filter.

·         Cut the bacon into strips and in another skillet sauté the bacon until it is golden brown. Remove from the fat. And sauté the peeled onions until they are cooked.

·         Sauté the mushrooms in the butter

·         Place the meat in the serving dish top with the onions and bacon and mushrooms.

·         In the pot which you cooked your venison heat the cream and reduce it by half.  Slowly the wine and stock and bring it up to a simmer. Add the blood which will thicken the sauce and pour the sauce over the other ingredients.

Chef tip. If you do not want to use blood as the thickening agent use corn starch slurries.

Medallions de Chevreuil aux Cerises

Venison medallions with cherries

Ingredients.

12 venison medallions 3 ounces each.

1 pound of stoned cherries

¼ pint of rich red wine.

½ pound of mushrooms.

A small piece of cinnamon stick.

2 ounces melted butter

1 pint of brown sauce

2 ounces brandy.

Method

·         Heat a skillet and season the medallions add the butter, and sauté the medallions medium rare.

·         Remove from the skillet and add the cherries and the cinnamon stick.

·         Flame the cherries and add the mushrooms cook until tender.

·         Add the sauce and the wine and reduce the sauce and cherries until the sauce coats the back of a spoon

·         Place the medallions on a hot serving dish and top the medallions with the cherry sauce.

·         Serve with game chips and poached asparagus.

I was judging a competition a few months ago and a classical dish Poulet sauté Chaseaur was presented to me. It had no tomato concasse, shallots, and most of all no chervil. I questioned the contestant and the response was that this was his interputation of the dish and a modern presentation of the dish. Even the classical 13 cuts of a whole chicken was wrong and I remarked when you presents a classical dish it must meet the ingredients and the butchery skills listed by Escoffier. The contestant went into a diatribe ranting and raving that classical cooking and following Le Guide Culiniere was dated and not used
I mentioned to the contestant the terms sauté was a classical term used by Escoffier and still used today. His response to me that it was the fetal matter of a bull. A sad response of a disqualifed competitor. The fact is that we need to respect the traditions of our craft and not make excuses for not studying the founder of the modern approach to classical cuisine.
I rest my case

The Spirit of a successful cook

THE SPIRIT OF A SUCCESSFUL COOK

PASSION:

          • Show initiative and solves problem

          • Utilizes common sense

          •Is ENGAGED and MOTIVATED

          •Is determined to offer irreproachable service to our guests

          •Accepts change and is flexible

PERSONALITY:

          •Is naturally positive

          •Shows professionalism

          •Shows loyalty

          •Shows dedication

          •Shows generosity

RESPECT:

          •Takes responsibility for triumphs as well as mistakes.

          •Learns and incorporates supplied information into their daily performance.

          •Respects and cultures, values, and customs of students and instructors.

          •Adopts the attitude, comportment, and presentation of The MCI.

          •Answer “Yes Chef” when an order is called or a directive is given by a superior.

TEAMWORK:

          •Never leaves a station in a state that they would not want to enter into.

          •Transmits knowledge, competency, technique, guidance, and support to develop            

                 less experienced students or new teammates. 

                •Recognizes that the success of the team is more important than the success of

            the individual.

          •Support the vision and the mission of your coop employer and your school.

          •Adopt a sense of personal responsibility for the financial success of the employerby  

           not wasting or abusing products or serving subpar products to our guests.

         

INNOVATION:

          •Shows curiosity, ask questions when not sure, and records information given to                                             

           them.

          •Offers creative solutions to problems instead of complaining.

          •Is open to new information, techniques, and experience related to furthering the  

           knowledge and ability of the staff.

          •Continuously willing to move forward while always respecting the traditions and

           customs of the les Amis D' Escoffier.

 •Encourages the evolution of our institute and views changes as an opportunity

            To improve